Wednesday, December 08, 2010

A Hauntingly Beautiful Dessert




I'm being haunted by the Croquembouche. This tower of spun sugar and cream puffs has been on my radar for quite a while, but lately, they seem to be everywhere.

I got started on a roll with the Croquembouche that graced the lavish dessert table, above. That Christmas party took place in a gorgeous Upper East Side apartment in 1966. Amazingly enough, the host reads my blog, so I've had the chance to speak with him about his holiday hosting skills. I'll post that within the next week. But in the meantime, you gotta admit that that Croquembouche was quite the show stopper.




Mary McDonald obviously agreed. She served one up to her guests at her formal Christmas party from a few years ago. In fact, this Town & Country photo made an appearance in one of my very first posts way back when.





The version found in Tiffany Christmas is decked out with chocolate leaves and sugared almonds.





I also come across this one that is holding court with a glazed Smithfield ham.





And then, I was at the bookstore where I saw the cover of Fine Cooking magazine. Yep, a Croquembouche.


Last night at 3am, I had the great idea that I would make my very own Croquembouche and photograph it to share with all of you. And, at 7am, I thought better of it. Some things are better left to the pastry chefs of the world. Otherwise, I feel it is a recipe for disaster.

28 comments:

  1. John J Tackett8:02 AM

    It is fun to have special desserts, especially this time of year. But there are some that I definitely prefer to be made by others!

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  2. I have never tried it, looks absolutely scrumptious!

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  3. Oh that dessert table in the second shot is incredible!! I haven't had croquembouche for years!! Might have to do something about that! Wonderful (and tempting) shots!

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  4. It is actually one of those desserts that look difficult but really arent. Cream puffs are easy to make. These are held together in a tower with the caramel and toothpicks and at the end you "bathe" it in a halo of spun sugar. this is the tough part for me!

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  5. clint9:41 AM

    let's make one!

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  6. A few years ago I ordered one from Alon's in Atlanta. It did look magical and I'd do it again. Serving it isn't quite as simple as cutting a red velvet cake but the gooey mess kind of adds to the festive atmosphere!

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  7. I had one at a Christmas party last year that was beautiful and delicious (not made by yours truly). The only downfall is they are so beautiful, its hard to eat!!

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  8. I have loved the Croquembouche, ever since the first time I saw it as a junior in college, spending the summer in Aspen... one day, I hope to attempt making it!

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  9. It is actually not too hard to make especially if you just make the puffs and the spun sugar--no cream filling--it gets soggy after awhile.
    I recommend consulting Martha Stewart and Julia Child for the choux pastry.
    My French grandmother told me that the croquembouche is a traditional peasant wedding cake of sorts.

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  10. I agree with lindaraxa above: the parts are easy enough. Getting the "halo" sugar the right temp without saying hello to the ER can be vexing.

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  11. My wedding cake was a quite towering croquembouche, and it looked incredibly glamorous on a friend's table in Paris at the reception.

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  12. Anonymous11:53 AM

    You can do it! What is required is a plan--make and bake the cream puff shells and freeze them in advance. Defrost the day before you serve. Make the filling the day before, as well. The time consuming part is actually the filling of the puffs. Then assemble and store overnight in a cool, cool place. You can decorate with dragees, candied violets. If I can do it, so can you.

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  13. You must post it on taste spotters. It would be a hit. We did the mushroom and leaf meringues that go on top of a boche de Noel (sp?) for a center piece one year. It about had us in tears.
    Best,
    Liz

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  14. I get those 3 am creative pushes--sometimes I wish that I had not carried through with them. Merry Christmas--fun post. Now, if I could just stop thinking about the croquembouche.......maybe Christmas Eve?

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  15. Gosh, after reading your comments, I'm totally inspired to take a stab at one. Now if I can only find the time to do so :)

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  16. Oh yes! Croquembouche is quite popular here in South Louisiana. I've eaten this since I was a kid! SO GOOD!

    You could always buy the cream-puffs readymade...winkwink ;)

    Andrea

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  17. First of all, I say go for it: it is deceptively easy to make, can be made ahead, is easy finger food for parties and is a boffo presentation. The choux pastry is dead simple to make, then spoon onto a baking sheet or pipe from a pastry bag and bake. They rise like little miracles and once cooled, can be tossed in a plastic bag and frozen for weeks; just set out and defrost and then add filling. Cream filled for cream puffs, ice cream filled and chocolate sauce topped for profiteroles, pate mousse filled for hors d'ouvres, the list is endless.

    The best Croquembouche I ever saw had the spun sugar decoration wrapped in an open scarf around the tree tower of cream puffs. You make the caramel as per usual, and then with a fork, spin it back and forth across two dowels set on chairs until you have a lacy "ribbon" which you can then wrapped around the cream puff tower (the puffs are held together by dabs of the same caramel, acting as a "glue"), or wrap around a similar sized and shaped greased, wax paper covered form and let set, to be later placed on your chilled tower of puffs. Quite the show-stopper!

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  18. I never have tried to make a Croquembouche but I think it sure would be a great idea and for sure an enrichment for our Christmas party. I just gotta give it a try.

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  19. And as if your post about croquembouche weren't enough, I just came across a reference to another towering dessert---I already forget if it was Careme or Escoffier, in which oranges were hollowed, filled with layers of blancmange and orange marmalade, and similarly arranged and adorned like the croquembouche....now my head is spinning with dreams of both

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  20. Well, I am usually not afraid to try anything. I will leave this one to the pro's.
    yvonne

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  21. I wish you were here and you and our sisters could make one! It is fun to try with a friend. Do try and then post a photo, Please?

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  22. Funny! I think I'd leave it to the pros too. I believe Martha did it in her book,Entertaining. If you want to try, I'd dig that book out. She is a good teacher.

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  23. Your last paragraph was my favorite!

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  24. I recall some years ago seeing Julia Child and Martha Stewart together each making their own version. While Julia's turned out rather a mess, Martha's was perfect. Of course what I've always loved about Julia is that she encourages you to make whatever it is and never apologize for the end result. My Julia side says go for it but my Martha side would like it to be well executed...

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  25. Gosh that looks delicious, but daunting. I hope you give it a try though. Nice that you've got so much encouragement here!

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  26. so how do you eat it? Do you pull off with your fingers or pry off with a spoon and fork? It looks too pretty to disburb.

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  27. Oh my. I adore the Croquembouche and I made one ONCE (note: once is in BOLD). It was SO much work (tasted delightful). I leave the fancy baking the fancy French bakeries. Much less work and so much easier!
    Now I think that we need Croquembouche for Xmas Eve dinner!

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  28. I saw the Julia Child/Martha Stewart bake off, too, and it was hilarious. Mrs. Child's was, indeed, a mess, and Martha got all competitive-y with her, and practically crowed with pleasure that hers was better. I 'bout busted a gut. Could have been an SNL skit.

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