Will You Please Pass the Jelly?

A few weeks ago, a few friends and I spent the day in LaGrange, Georgia where we had lunch at a local tea room. The food was quintessential Southern lunch fare: chicken salad, rice salad, and carrot and raisin salad. But the highlight of the lunch was a congealed salad, one that was, I believe, made of lime gelatin, either cream cheese or whipped topping, minced celery, and horseradish. It was absolutely delicious. I don't know how such a combination could taste so good, but it did.

The much maligned congealed salad is not something you see too often. It's rare to find it in Atlanta, although if you travel to small towns throughout the South, you will find restaurants and houses where it's still served. My grandmother used to make a fabulous congealed salad about which everyone raved. I'm still trying to locate the recipe, but as I recall, it was made of a choice of lime or cherry gelatin, cottage cheese, crushed pineapple, and whipped topping. Don't snicker. It was beyond tasty, not too sweet, and refreshing on a hot summer day.

Adam Lewis is also a fan of the congealed salad, something which we recently discussed with much enthusiasm. Adam is quite the gourmand, so the fact that he not only likes these salads but has been serving them to his guests is, in a way, a seal of approval. Lately, Adam has been making an Apricot Salad that has been a hit with his guests; you can see the recipe for it below.

I think a congealed salad is a wonderful thing to serve for a ladies lunch or a light supper. However, if you can't quite stomach the thought of congealed salads, perhaps you should try serving Tomato Aspic, the still socially acceptable congealed salad. (Bunny Williams recently wrote of Tomato Aspic in her Bunny's Buzz email blast, so you see, congealed salads are on the minds of quite a few of us.) Or, how about fruit gelatin salad like those they serve in England? They don't refer to them as congealed nor Jell-O salads, but rather jellies. Perhaps you might prefer that term to the word "congealed".

And while we're on the subject of congealed and gelatin salads, I think that ring molds and mousses can be elegant additions to a buffet table. I love making salmon mousse, mostly because I get to use my copper fish mold. Ring molds are great because you can put a complementary food in the middle of the ring like peas, melon balls, shrimp, or creamed chicken, for example. And if you've inherited antique or vintage molds from your mother or grandmother, you can use them to create all kinds of fancy looking salads. The sky's the limit.


Apricot Salad
Adam wrote, "I can take no credit for this recipe. It comes from The Picnic, a restaurant in Nashville. I serve it with my favorite curry chicken salad. The spicy salad and this sweet salad make a great flavor combination. Also, it's a nice color combination. The chicken salad is curry-yellow and the Jello salad is a great pink. A friend said 'I think that Sofia Coppola should have known about this pink salad for the food scene in her Marie Antoinette movie... definitely if Laduree did Jello salad, that 's what it would look like!' I garnish the plates with red oak leaf lettuce."


Serves eight

2 packages (3 ounces each) of apricot Jello

1 can (20 ounces) of crushed pineapple

1/4 cup buttermilk

12 ounces Cool Whip

Drain pineapple, reserve juice

Mix gelatin and pineapple juice in a saucepan. Cook over low heat until gelatin dissolves, stirring constantly. Remove from heat.

When completely cool, add buttermilk. Let stand until thickened, then fold in Cool Whip. Gently fold in crushed pineapple. Do not over beat.

Spoon into a 9 X 11 dish. Chill overnight.




Blueberry Jelly with Summer Fruit





Charlotte Ford set her table for a Tiffany & Co. book with a black cherry gelatin ring mold.




According to one vintage cookbook "The ring mold is the delight of family and friends whether of noodles, vegetables, or chicken mousse."




To the left is Lemon Mousse, while on the right is a good old-fashioned Spinach Ring Mold.




A Crab Meat Mousse Ring Mold.




A Blue Cheese Mold.


Image at top: A Port Wine Jelly

Penguin Great Food Series

I'm about to report some old news, but it's new news to me. I just recently learned of the Penguin Great Food series of books that was published last year. Devoted to the best food writing from the last 400 years, the series includes books by the likes of Elizabeth David, Samuel Pepys, and Calvin Trillin. And what just might be the icing on the cake are the book's charming paperback covers. In fact, that's what initially caught my eye when I first saw these books. While the cover art is a feast for the eyes, it's what inside that is sure to provide much (great) food for thought. (Sorry, I just couldn't help myself with that last sentence!)



From Absinthe to Zest: An Alphabet for Food Lovers by Alexandre Dumas



The Well-Kept Kitchen by Gervase Markham.



Murder in the Kitchen. by Alice B. Toklas by Alice B. Toklas.



The Joys of Excess by Samuel Pepys.

Entertaining in the French Style

A few weeks ago, I posted on both the Manhattan and Paris apartments of designer Jean-Paul Beaujard. Well, my fascination with Beaujard's work has only intensified thanks to the book Entertaining in the French Style. I guess you could also say that because of this book, my interest in French food and tableware has been piqued as well.

Eileen Johnson, the book's author who also owns and operates FlowerSchool New York, has written a charming book that really captures the essence of French entertaining. Each chapter profiles an intriguing person (subjects include Beaujard, an artist, and an antique textiles collector) who lives in some beautiful part of France (think Paris, L'Isle sur la Sorgue, and La Perche.) The book's sumptuous photographs show the various tableware and food that each subject uses and serves when entertaining. There are even a few recipes included for dishes like Algerian Couscous and Plum Clafouti.

If you are at all interested in French style and entertaining, you really should consider purchasing a copy of this book either for yourself or as a gift. (The book's smaller size makes it perfect for gift-giving.) Reading it really is like taking an enchanting but all too brief trip to France.



A beautiful Maison Jansen games table set for dinner in the Paris apartment of designer Jean-Paul Beaujard. The porcelain is Sevres.




A table set beneath a pear tree at a bed & breakfast in Saignon. The wine, cheese, and fruit look scrumptious.



In the L'Isle sur la Sorgue home of designer and textile collector Michel Biehn. Biehn designed the cicada and pine decorated china and had it made in Mouspiers, France. I'm fascinated with the earthenware cicada knife rests.



Biehn set this table in his garden.



Artist Tony Ramos, who lives near Eygalieres in Provence, laid out hors d'oeuvres including saucisson, olives, and olive paste, in his studio. This was a precursor to a meal of roast chicken, string beans, and fresh tomatoes. Vin d'orange was served alongside.



A jasmine tart is garnished with crystallized mint leaves and rose petals.

All photos from Entertaining in the French Style by Eileen Johnson; Brie Williams photographer.

Swanson Vineyards... Wow!

I'm back from my Napa trip, and thanks to all of the delicious food and wine that I consumed, a good time was certainly had by me! (Did I mention that I'm now on a cottage cheese and cucumber diet?)

One of the highlights of my trip was a tasting at Swanson Vineyards. The entire time I was there, "OMG" kept crossing my mind. How better to describe an afternoon spent drinking fabulous wine, eating cheese and Vosges Haut-Chocolat truffles, and learning about the history of Swanson Vineyards? Oh, and all of this took place in the Salon that was decorated by Thomas Britt. See? OMG!

Alexis Swanson Traina, the super clever Creative Director of Swanson Vineyards, envisioned the Salon as a modern day version of those much romanticized Parisian salons- an intimate place for conversation, discussion, and conviviality. It is in the Swanson Salon that the formal tastings are held. And seriously, you feel as though you're at a chic home. Much of the decor was done by Britt (who, as godfather to Alexis, is someone near and dear to the Swanson family.) Britt chose a pinky red strié finish for the walls that is the perfect backdrop for the eccentric but fabulous paintings by California artist Ira Yeager. Antiques with great old patina are dotted throughout the space.

But the heart of the room is the octagonal tasting table with its magnificent polished wood and geode inset top and impressive metal antler base. (Leave it to Britt to find something as unique as this.) The table is graciously set with beautiful silver candelabra, votives, wine glasses and more wine glasses, and flowers arranged to a casual perfection by Alexis' mother, Elizabeth. It's truly a special spot at which to taste the range of Swanson wines.

I'll stop now because words don't do the Salon justice. If you're ever in Napa, I encourage you (maybe implore is the better word?) to visit Swanson yourself. For those of us who like design, food, wine, and entertaining, Swanson is right up our alley. You don't just go there to taste the wine; you go for the experience. And this truly is an experience that I won't soon forget!

Below are just some of the copious photos that I took of the Salon. Formal tastings in the Salon are by appointment only. Next door to the Salon is the jaunty Sip Shoppe where more informal tastings are held. Stay tuned for my photos of Sip Shoppe plus the charming courtyard of Swanson. For more information on Swanson Vineyards, visit their website.











The tasting table was so lush and beautiful. Of course, I'm also a sucker for silver vases and votives (including that monkey votive!) and a bounty of flowers.






The tasting started with a refreshing 2010 Rosato, followed by a crisp 2010 Chardonnay. Reds followed including Swanson's noted Merlot (2007), a 2007 Alexis Cabernet, and a 2007 Face Cabernet. We ended the tasting with their delicious Crepuscule Late Harvest Semillon. My sister and I were taken with all of the wines tasted. I also have to say that I have never been a Merlot fan, but the Swanson Merlot is one of my new favorite wines. In fact, quite a few bottles of the Merlot, Rosato, and their Pinot Grigio came home with me.




With our Chardonnay, we enjoyed a potato chip with creme fraiche and a dollop of Hackleback caviar. (I'm going to play copycat and serve this at my next to-do.) The cheese plate included my all-time favorite Mimolette cheese. In the ceramic spoon was a rose petal holding Castello blue cheese and a few drops of a Chardonnay syrup. This too might show up at one of my future parties. The truffle at the top left of the photo, an "Alexis Bonbon", was by Vosges Haut-Chocolat. Alexis Cabernet was incorporated into the truffle. Another OMG moment.





The unusual (and very cool) tasting table found by Thomas Britt. Based on the blurriness of the table base photo, it's apparent that I took it after the wine tasting.








The details include antiques, paintings by Ira Yeager, unusual accessories, and of course, those ceramic lions.

All photos are the copyright of Jennifer Boles/ The Peak of Chic.

Reflections on Iced Tea

Day after day after day the temperature here in Atlanta has reached well above 90 degrees, and all I can say for myself is that I've been drinking about as much iced tea as Don Meredith. On rare occasions I drink it plain, although usually I prefer it sweetened. I never order sweet tea at a restaurant as I never know what I'm going to get; I doctor mine up with Splenda instead. At the risk of being run out of town, there is nothing more sickening than sickeningly sweet tea. Arnold Palmers are okay, but I'm more of a purist. And I'm not a snob either when it comes to the brand of tea I brew. Luzianne or Lipton is fine by me.


Tiffany & Co. Chrysanthemum Iced Tea Spoon

A little bit like the Japanese tea ritual, serving iced tea can be done so with a few fancy flourishes. Of course there are sterling iced tea spoons, made long enough to stir the sugar crystals that accumulate at the bottom of a tall glass of tea.




There are also those silver sipper spoons that many people collect. I think they're cute, but I also think that they're not appropriate for all social occasions. It just seems silly to offer your 90 year old grandmother a glass of iced tea with a silver straw.



Wiliam Yeoward "Fern" pitcher

A nice heavy crystal or glass pitcher is nice to have on hand for serving iced tea and looks especially pretty when the tea is flecked with mint leaves.



Edwardian Antique Silver Punch Bowl from Daniel Bexfield Antiques


But for a party, a shower, or a luncheon, you have to go all out with your tea. You've got to mix it with all kinds of fruit juices and such to make it extra special. And by all means, it must be served in a pretty punch bowl with slices of fruit floating at the top. (I know this might sound awfully fruity to some of you, but hey, it's tradition!) Even C.Z. Guest served her guests her special Party Tea. In case you're interested:


C. Z. Guest Party Tea
6 tea bags
2 quarts water
1/4 cup superfine sugar
1 cup orange juice
6 mint sprigs
1/2 lemon
1 orange
cloves

Make the tea: either steep the tea bags in boiling water for three minutes or set them in jars in the sun or in the refrigerator for several hours. Chill tea. Before serving, add the sugar, orange juice, and mint sprigs. Slice the lemon and orange and stick each slice with 3-4 cloves. Float fruit slices on top in a punch bowl.

Makes 10 cups.

Image at top from Martha Stewart.com; click here to see all of her iced tea recipes.